European Collaboration Introduces Sustainable Cosmetic Pencil with Natural Serum Formulation

Helsinki, FINLAND / Igensdorf, GERMANY

A new European collaboration between the material innovator Sulapac and the formulation specialist NELE Kosmetik has resulted in the development of a sustainable decorative cosmetic pencil that combines a bio-based casing with a natural, bio-certifiable serum formulation. The innovation responds to increasing regulatory pressure and consumer demand for environmentally responsible cosmetics without compromising product performance.

The tightening of the EU Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR) and the phased ban on intentionally added microplastics are forcing the cosmetics industry to rethink both packaging materials and product formulations. Decorative cosmetic pencils have long posed a particular challenge: combining sustainable materials with high-performance formulations rich in active ingredients was often considered technically unstable.

The joint development by Sulapac and NELE Kosmetik demonstrates that this challenge can be overcome. By combining Sulapac’s bio-based Flow 1.8 material with a hybrid serum formulation developed by NELE Kosmetik, the partners have created a cosmetic pencil that bridges the gap between sustainability and high-end cosmetic performance.

 

Natural Ingredients and Sustainable Materials

The cosmetic pencil features formulations for a serum lip liner and serum kajal, both made entirely from ingredients of natural origin. Active ingredients such as ceramides and peptides support skin care benefits while delivering the expected performance of decorative cosmetics. The formulations can be NATRUE organic certified, which represents a first in the lip liner and kajal category.

The lip liner smooths and defines the lip contour, while the kajal provides care for eyelashes, helping strengthen the roots and support natural growth. The pencil casing is made from bio-based Sulapac Flow 1.8 material, which contains biodegradable biopolymers and wood sourced as a byproduct of the Nordic forest industry.

Unlike conventional plastic casings, the material does not generate permanent microplastic residues. It is industrially compostable and ecotoxicologically safe, and even the particles created during sharpening are biodegradable.

 

Extensive Development and Compatibility Testing

The development of the cosmetic pencil required extensive research and compatibility testing to ensure that the natural formulation remains stable within the bio-based casing. This was particularly challenging because the Sulapac material had never previously been used for a cosmetic pencil containing a fully natural formulation.

Comprehensive testing confirmed that no components migrate from the casing into the formulation core, ensuring long-term product stability and full compliance with EU cosmetic regulations. The product is, of course, cruelty-free, in line with EU legislation banning animal testing for cosmetics since 2013.

 

Conventional Performance with a Natural Product

Consumers expect natural cosmetics to offer the same look, feel, and application experience as conventional products. Both the serum lip liner and kajal therefore deliver smooth application, strong color performance, and precise lines, while maintaining long-lasting wear.

The pencil can be sharpened like a traditional cosmetic pencil, and the casing offers a smooth, uniform surface comparable to conventional plastic, allowing brands to apply individual branding and maintain a premium appearance.

 

Manufacturing Collaboration

The bio-based pencil casings are manufactured by Weimako, an extrusion specialist that initiated the collaboration between NELE Kosmetik and Sulapac. Processing new bio-based materials often presents challenges in manufacturing, as extrusion parameters must be optimized for each machine. However, Sulapac’s Flow 1.8 material can be processed on conventional extrusion equipment, enabling efficient and scalable production.

 

Market Launch

The decorative cosmetic pencil with serum eyeliner or serum lip liner formulations is close to market launch and will be positioned in the mid-price segment. Adjustments to the formulation, including active ingredients, can be implemented according to brand requirements.

The partners plan to submit the product innovation for international awards recognizing both the sustainable material and the advanced formulation concept.

“We are proud of this sustainable product resulting from the combination of cutting-edge material science, comprehensive product development and dedication to bring exceptional solutions to the customers,” says Katja Ahonen, Key Account Manager at Sulapac.

“A complex product like this requires collaboration between many partners — no single company can develop such a solution alone,” adds Miriam Hempel, Co-CEO and Head of Marketing, Sales & Project Management at NELE Kosmetik. “EU regulation is pushing companies to explore alternative materials. We are pleased that Sulapac is actively developing solutions for cosmetic applications, because the industry needs more materials like Flow 1.8.”

Dr. Heidi Peltola, Chief Product Officer at Sulapac, adds: “This liner made from natural ingredients and biobased Sulapac material brings the EU’s Bioeconomy Strategy to life and demonstrates the innovative strength of European collaboration.”

 

About the Innovation

The jointly developed cosmetic pencil represents a new approach in decorative cosmetics: it combines a bio-based, industrially compostable casing material with a natural, bio-certifiable hybrid active formulation for eyes or lips. The result is a sustainable cosmetic product that delivers the same comfort, design quality, and application performance as conventional alternatives.

 

 

Further information:

Miriam Hempel
Co-CEO and Head of Marketing, Sales & Project Management, NELE Kosmetik
+49 172 88 54 769 – miriam.hempel@nele-kosmetik.com

Noora Nyländen
Marketing & Communications, Sulapac Ltd
+358 40 849 5286 – noora.nylanden@sulapac.com

 

NELE Kosmetik produces high-class cosmetic products for B2B partners. Our services range from contract filling and bulk production to full service with ready-labeled cosmetic products. As an owner-managed company, we stand for the highest quality, flexibility and speed since over 35 years.

Sulapac Ltd is an award-winning material innovation company providing solutions to the global plastic crisis. By replacing conventional plastic with sustainable, beautiful, and functional Sulapac materials, companies can reduce their carbon footprint, eliminate microplastic pollution, and advance the bioeconomy. The Helsinki-based company was founded by three scientists in 2016 and serves customers across various industries on three continents. Investors behind the multi-patent Sulapac® portfolio include CHANEL and Lifeline Ventures.